My New Baby

She arrived on Wednesday.

My new Sony DSLR A580 camera.

The above photo is one I borrowed from the Sony site.

She came just like that - body only - I didn't need the lenses as I already have them.

How different it is from the A100.

It takes 16mp images and it has an HD movie mode that I can't wait to try out.

Since it has been raining for over a week, I could only take sample shots of things around the house as I got used to the workings of it.

Yesterday had me chasing the cat around, but he wasn't too cooperative.

My daughter and grandson will be visiting this evening - I'll chase him around for a while after I grab all the hugs and kisses I can get from him.

Life is good all the way around!

A New Camera

A New Camera

I have been doing my homework.

Time spent searching and researching online.

For the best prices and the best features from the best seller.

I knew exactly which model I wanted - body only - I already have the lenses I need.

There aren't many sold that way.

But I ran across a deal, with a rebate, and I placed the order on Friday.

I have been waiting anxiously all weekend for the shipping and tracking info - hopefully tomorrow that email will arrive.

More details later - needless to say - I am so excited!!

Underwater Case and Camera - My World

Underwater Case and Camera - My World






In my last post, I showed a point and shoot camera in a case under the water.

It was pretty hard to tell what it actually was in the photo, so here is what it looks like out of the water.

It's just a little tiny one - an older one that I picked up online.

The plastic case is perfectly designed just for it, and it is quite water tight - I tested it out in the sink before I put the camera in it.

The brand has been removed so I can use this photo as a stock image.

It is a Canon and so is the case.

ABC Wednesday - U is for Underwater

U is for Underwater............







It is hard to recognize what this image is, but it is my camera.

I have a small pocket digital camera that has a waterproof plastic case that is made for going underwater.

It is really cool - all of the buttons on the case line up with the camera, so it is still completely usable.

It says the case is made to go to 10 meters in depth - and that more than covers anywhere I will be going with it.

I have seen too many interesting things while swimming, and with this little guy by my side, I can capture them.

I checked on one for my DSLR, but it costs almost as much as the camera itself.

I will stick with this one and enjoy it just as much!








This is the seventh round of ABC Wednesday. If you would like to join in please visit this site for the details.

Shredded Trees

Shredded Trees







We made a new discovery this past weekend, and it was right on our own road.

We live on a dirt road that is about four miles long.

Last autumn there was some logging going on about halfway down the road, but we never gave it much thought.

We decided to take a walk up the logging road towards the end of winter and after what we saw, we couldn't wait for spring to arrive to hike it again.

Yesterday was the day, and I never knew that this beautiful spot existed so close to home.

Usually logging roads show much devastation, and this was no different in that regard, but there was something different about this one compared to others we have been on.

It was almost like it was tastefully logged.

The open spaces, hills, and natural beauty of the land was not disturbed and the logging seemed to enhance it.

They must have some pretty powerful machines because there were shredded trees like the one above, and wood chips lined the paths.

The smell of cedar was everywhere as the spring sun warmed the chips.

There were a few "mud traps", so we were glad to have on the waterproof hiking boots.

I had brought my camera of course, but because we were going back for something specific that we saw in the winter, I put on my big lens.

Stupidly I didn't take any other ones or any other equipment.

That won't happen again - no wide angle to capture the beauty of the whole place, just the 80-300mm that captured far away things.

No macros of the beautiful pink rocks - too much distance and not enough light for the big lens to do them any justice.

Over all, it was quite a hike, and we ended up at the highest point on our road.

I am anxious to go again and bring all my stuff plus lunch - but I know it will be some time before we can go back up.

Hopefully within the next few weeks - I must keep my eyes on what we originally went in to see.

I'll be sharing more in the coming posts of this beautiful spot, so stay tuned!

Photo Tip Friday - Other Details Too

Photo Tip Friday - Other Details Too







A bit of a different tip for today.

I love to explore new areas when taking photos, and I always try to make sure I have what I am going to need with me for my equipment.

For sure, I will always find something - even just walking under the power lines will yield something worth photoing.

New views, plants, rocks - my eyes are always open for something.

With the powerlines humming above us as we walk along, we stopped under one set to take a break - sitting on the concrete base so we are off the ground.

I'm interested in looking through the viewfinder, my husband is scanning the scenery for any wildlife.

Both absorbed in our actions, we were not paying too much attention to our very immediate surroundings.

And that was our downfall.

It's chilly outside and we are in a shrubby area with tall grass - and the soil is rather sandy.

Perfect for tracking the wildlife.

And perfect for one of nature's big menaces.

Ticks - lots of them.

I saw one on my husband - and he was just like velcro - no brushing him off.

Then I looked down - they were all through the grass and climbing up - towards me.

My first thought - I should have tucked my jeans in my boots, then sprayed all my clothing with repellent.

One of the details I forgot about - it will not happen again.

Need to think beyond just the equipment!

Photo Tip Friday - My Favorite Filter - The Polarizer

Photo Tip Friday - My Favorite Filter - The Polarizer








In last week's post I mentioned a problem that my polarizer filter was causing with my lens.

Theresa, over at Out in the Backyard asked what a polarizer was used for, and I am glad she did because it is my favorite filter.

Everyone loves a deep blue ocean and a beautiful blue sky overhead.

Many times the sky seems a bit washed out, and the glare on the water doesn't allow the deep colors to show up in an image.

So, how does a photographer get those vivid blues?

They use their trusty polarizer filter.

And not only does that polarizer make the blue colors more vivid, it enhances the reds and greens also.

It effectively removes reflections from glass and water so you can see beneath the surface with more depth.

A little piece of magic that I would never be without - especially since I love nature and landscape photography.

I keep it on my lens at all times - I have one for each lens.

Since this filter "spins" to increase the polarizing effect, you can effectively turn it so that it doesn't work at all if you do not need it.

One thing to keep in mind if you keep it on the camera at all times - you need to adjust your exposure.

As with all filters, it is another "layer" for the light go through, and adjusting for the exposure compensates for this.

A circular polarizer is a must for digital cameras with autofocus lenses. A Linear one does not work with an AF lens.

Keep in mind that the polarizer also tends to "cool" down the overall tone of the image, so I recommend a Moose's Polarizer filter which includes an 81a warming filter built into it to put the "warmth" back into the photo.

Spending a little more for a quality polarizer is really worth it in the end - it is the best little helper a photographer can have!

Photo Tip Friday - Dealing with Vignetting

Photo Tip Friday - Dealing with Vignetting









Have you ever heard of the word or term, vignetting?

Well, if you look at the image above, I bet you can quickly figure out what it is.

This photo has come directly from the camera - no photoshopping, cropping, or adjustments of any kind (something you will very rarely find here).

The edges of the photo loose the brightness that composes the center of the image.

And what causes this, you may ask.

Well, sometimes it is intended, and there are filters available for getting that effect in a photo.

But in my case, it was not intended.

And it is something that you cannot see through the viewfinder when taking the photo.

In the above image, it was caused by a couple of things.

First, I used my wide angle lens at it fullest capability.

This is usually not a problem most of the time, but I like to keep a polarizer filter on my lens at all times.

And unless you specifically purchase a slim (very hard to find a quality one) filter, then the polarizer filter tends to be a rather "thick" piece with a wider rim.

The lens in the wide angle position can "see" the edges of the rim, and it shows in the image, darkening the corners.

Now, you can get around this by purchasing a step up ring, and getting a bigger filter so it sits out beyond the lens' edges.

Filters for wide angle lens are bigger and more expensive, and by using the above method, you need to purchase an even larger filter (and lens cap).

As I have found out, it is best to check this out before you purchase your filters so you don't end up with unused, expensive equipment.

Or you can use the square filters that fit on any size lens as long as you have the correct mounts.

When I finally get to processing this image, a simple crop will easily take care of that unwanted vignetting without taking anything away from the image.

I was lucky this time.

Photo Tip Friday - Keep it Dry

Photo Tip Friday - Keep it Dry









Today is my 27th wedding anniversary, and we were supposed to spend it at the ocean.

Watching the weather forecast all week, I knew it wasn't going to be a bright sunny day, but overcast with a 50% chance of showers in the late afternoon.

No problem, I think to myself, I always carry a plastic bag, tucked in the corner of my camera case.

Since my gear comes everywhere with me, you just never know, and I don't want it wet.

That bag will keep things dry until I can get in the car or inside out of the weather.

Well, last night the weather forecast was for rain all day.

That little bag was not going to do me any good with that kind of precipitation.

So the trip is postponed - too much water for walking humans and cameras today.

Friday's Photo Tip - Keep Your Eyes Open

Friday's Photo Tip - Keep Your Eyes Open









This post is a bit different from my other photo tips posts, but I think a quick reminder is necessary.

If you are anything like me when the camera is up to your eye - the rest of the world becomes non-existent.

I'm concentrating on the DOF, f-stop, shutter speed, and composition and am consumed in those actions.

I'm not noticing the bystander on the bench, or his buddy that is sneaking his way towards me.

I'm holding almost $2000 in camera equipment in my hands, and I am alone in the city, taking a walk while waiting for my husband to finish up with his appointment.

It's not a good idea to close out the rest of the world when behind the lens.

We are usually together most of the time when we are in the city, and he watches over things - something that I don't even have to think while shooting images.

Until now.

Quick thinking kept me safe this time, but I think I much prefer the beasts in the woods to the beasts that inhabit the city.

Friday's Photo Tip - Controlling the Aperture

Friday's Photo Tip - Controlling the Aperture









Last week's post discussed the job of the aperture and how it controls the amount of light entering the camera.

And I ended the post mentioning that I would help explain why a photographer would want to control the size of the aperture when the camera has a mode for doing this automatically.

Most cameras, both the point and shoot, and the DSLR's have several modes for capturing images.

The most popular one is the "auto" or the "program" mode as it lets the camera make all the decisions - and it does a great job most of the time.

There are other options to pick from too, and they include shutter priority, aperture priority, and manual.

I use manual off and on, but when I am in a situation when I don't have the time to think and fiddle around, I pick the aperture priority mode. It is my favorite one most of the time.

This mode allows me to set the aperture at what I want, and the camera will choose the correct shutter speed to compensate for the light.

I am a bit of a fanatic when it comes to my depth of field, and this is something that is controlled by the aperture.

The size of the aperture and my focal distance will determine how much of the photo will be in focus.

And the handy little button next to my lens that allows me to view the image by closing down aperture is also another one of my favorites.

I can see exactly what will be in focus and it can be a huge help in determining if it has that nice bokeh background that I like.

Now, how does one use the aperture to control the depth of field?

Once again it has to do with those f-stop numbers and how big the aperture is.

The smaller the number, the more shallow the depth of field will be and less will be in focus.

The higher the number, the wider the depth of field will be, and more will be in focus.

When shooting macro, the depth of field is very limited to begin with, so I try to get a fairly high number to get more of the image in focus.

This is not always easy, because if you remember from last week, the higher the number, the less the light there is coming into the camera.

And that means a slower shutter speed to compensate for this, which in turn usually means I need to use a tripod.

The above image has an f-stop of 5.

By pressing the aperture button beside the lens, I could see that I had the very center of the flower in sharp focus and the petals were acceptable though not as sharp.

And the background - it had that nice bokeh that I was hoping for.

If I had increased the f-stop to a higher number, like 22, then all the flower, and pretty much all the grass and the background would be in fairly good focus.

A lower f-stop, like 2, would have just the very center in focus, and the petals would have no definition and would blur into the background too.

By controlling the aperture opening with the f-stop numbers, the photographer has much more creative control over their photo and how they want it to appear.

Try experimenting with the different f-stops while shooting one subject and notice the difference in each photo.

The good thing about digital cameras - they record all the exif info with each photo. That ends all the writing down we used to have to do when shooting our images so we would know the shutter speed, f-stop, ISO, focal distance, time, date, and so forth.

I hope I have explained this so that is easy enough to understand. If you have any questions, please let me know.

Thanks for stopping by and happy experimenting with your aperture - it's one of the best parts of using a camera!

Friday's photo Tip - What Does the Aperture Do?

Friday's Photo Tip - What Does the Aperture Do?









"Aperture" is a photography term that we have all heard about, but sometimes don't really understand what it is or how it works.

If anyone has taken the time to read the owner's manual for their camera, whether you have a point and shoot, or a DSLR, you have run across this term.

How well it is explained in those manuals is another topic.

Most times, you will have read something about your camera being automatic, shutter priority, aperture priority, or manual when it comes to taking photos.

The auto setting is the most popular so the other terms aren't usually given too much thought.

There is an aperture in every lens, and it is used by the camera to control the amount of light that reaches the film or digital sensor.

This aperture is adjustable - from large openings to very small openings, depending on the amount of light that is available.

The size of the aperture is controlled by a ring (on the old lens photo above) that is closest to the camera body.

This ring has numbers that usually range from 1.4 up to 22, and they are known as the f-stop numbers.

These numbers are a value that is given to the aperture opening, and in photography, the lower the number, the bigger the aperture or opening.

The larger the number, the smaller the opening, which usually means you have a lot of light available for the photo.

Think of it like the iris in your eye, because the aperture in a lens works just like one.

When it is really bright outside, the pupil is very tiny - only letting in a small amount of light.

When it is dark, the pupils are huge - they need to let in as much light as possible.

In most digital cameras of today, the aperture is controlled by a dial on the camera, not the lens, and it all still works the same way as the old lenses do when the photo is taken.

And the next question is, what do these f-stop numbers mean, and why does a photographer need to know about them when the camera can automatically figure the light available and pick all the correct settings itself?

Ah - but that's one of the fun parts of photography, and I will explain it the best I can in next week's Friday's Photo Tip.

Friday's Photo Tip - Beware the Sensor Size

Friday's Photo Tip - Beware the Sensor Size









All digital cameras use a sensor to capture an image - it is the film of the digital camera.

Remember all the different kinds and sizes of film there used to be to choose from?

Well digital cameras are the same way there too.

Depending on the camera you buy, it will have a certain size sensor.

The sensors in the the DSLR cameras are broken down into two different types.

They are the Full Frame Sensor and the APS-C Sensor.

The full frame sensor is equated to the full 35mm size in the film cameras.

The APS-C is considered a "cropped" version of the 35mm size.

So it stands to reason that the full frame has more pixels which will produce a larger image.

It is also quite a bit more expensive.

The APS-C sensor is what is in most DSLRs on the market today.

This doesn't mean that the DSLR with the APS-C sensor is inferior though.

It does the same job as the full frame - it just produces a smaller file.

Since most professionals need the large file, they opt to go with the full frame camera.

In the last few years, lens manufacturers have been coming out with lenses that are designed for the APS-C cameras.

Now, they can also be used on the full frame cameras, but the pixels will be limited by the amount of the camera that they were designed for.

A couple of the manufacturers have also mentioned that there is serious vignetting when using them.

The manufacturers also have a special code on the lens style number that indicates they are the cropped style and not the full frame. This is something to be aware of when purchasing a lens, especially if you are using an APS camera now and want to upgrade in the future.

And if you are wondering about using the full frame lens on an APS sensor camera - go for it.

Each camera brand has a "crop factor" depending on the actual size of the sensor.

This crop factor affects the field of view (FOV) of the lens.

If the camera has a 1.6 crop factor, then a 300mm lens captures an image that would take a 480mm lens on a full frame camera to capture.

This crop factor doesn't work as nicely on the wide angle images though.

As always - there are pros and cons to everyting.

The point and shoot cameras don't have to worry about any of these problems though.

Their sensors are designed to work perfectly with their fixed lenses.

Photography has something to offer for everyone - from the inexperienced to the experienced.

And digital photography makes it so much more fun!

Friday's Photo Tip - Image Stabilization

Friday's Photo Tip - Image Stabilization









Image Stabilization is a new term when it comes to photography.

Before digital cameras came along, if this term was mentioned, it would probably be taken as a fancy term for "using a tripod".

And if we were to use a tripod at all times, then this image stabilization would not even be necessary, even with today's cameras.

But it does make life so much easier for a photographer to have this technology since it isn't always practical to use a tripod.

And just what does it do for photography?

It allows the photographer to shoot in lower light conditions with slower shutter speeds without using a tripod for stability. It detects slight movements of the camera body and compensates for them when it snaps the image.

The result is sharper images by hand held cameras with slower shutter speeds.

It used to be recommend with an SLR camera to not shoot below a shutter speed of 30 as it is pretty hard to hold everything very still and get a sharp image.

I have used 30 with no problems with my DSLR and I have also had good success with a shutter speed of 15 - without a tripod - so this technology does work.

But you won't find this image stabilization technology in most DSLRs.

It is in most point and shoot digital cameras, and the video cameras all have it also.

So why not the DSLR's?

Well, it is in one brand that I know of - Sony.

This technology is built into the camera, and what ever lens you put on the camera will be able to take advantage of this feature.

Most of the DSLR manufacturers have yet to add this feature in their camera bodies.

But they do make lenses that has this technology built into them. And they are very expensive.

Is it a necessary feature to consider when purchasing a DSLR?

I really don't think it is, especially when a tripod will do the job.

But when you are hiking around with a heavy zoom lens on the camera, it is awfully nice to have this feature when grabbing a quick image.

Even with a faster shutter speed, some of the lenses are heavy, and this image stabilization kicks in to save the photo.

Friday's Photo Tip - RAW vs JPG

Friday's Photo Tip - RAW vs JPG









The debate to shoot RAW or JPG has gone on for years, and I believe it will always be this way.

Both sides have their pros and cons and the diehards for each side will continue to tout their way as the best.

For the most part, I shoot in the jpg format, but I have just had an experience that I think may have me changing my ways - but only on some photos.

When shooting jpg in the camera, the software in the camera compresses the file of the image, making it readable by most computer programs. It is considered the universal standard for photos.

When shooting raw, the file is saved without any compression. They are huge files, but they contain every exact pixel of info - no guessing going on with the raw format.

But every camera has a different way of processing raw files, and only one kind of software, designed just for it, can handle it most of the time. And when the firmware in the camera gets updated, it may need new software to process it. This makes old raw files obselete real quick.

A memory card will fill up extremely fast when shooting raw, and the processing of it takes longer too. If you are photoing action you need to wait for the camera to process the file before shooting the next frame.

Jpgs (also known as jpegs) allow you to fit more images on a memory card, and I have never had to wait for my camera to process them - it saves really quickly to the card.

Both types of files can be tweaked, but the raw ones need an extra step in the processing routine in order to make them tweakable in a program like photoshop. This is another program which just increases the processing time.

So, why would one want to shoot RAW when it makes more sense to shoot JPG?

I have been submitting images to a new stock agency, and they require the submitted file to be 48MB in size.

My jpg files are, on average, 28MB in size. This means I need to interpolate, or enlarge my file in order for it to even be considered for this agency.

When interpolating a compressed image, the program looks at the pixels and does its best to fill in the blank spaces to give this file 48MB of info. Since a jpg is compressed with a lot of guesswork to begin with, it is just more guessing which leads to artifacts and poor resolution when viewed at 100% in photoshop.

By using a RAW file, all of the info is there to interpolate with, not as much guessing going on as with the JPG. A cleaner and sharper image should be the result by interpolating a raw file as opposed to a jpg file.

Since I will only be sending certain images to this agency, I will shoot only the ones for them as RAW and will continue with JPG for all my other images.

But if one can afford the 24 megapixel DSLR, then none of this really matters - the JPGs will be just as gorgeous as the RAWs since the files will be so big to begin with.

It's always a numbers game!

ABC Wednesday - Z is for Zoom Lens

Z is for Zoom Lens............







No - that is not a zoom lens in the photo, but one of those filters pictured will be going on a new one that will arrive in the next day or two.

And man, am I excited!

I have spent many hours researching and comparing and reading about the different lenses that are available for my Sony DSLR.

As it uses many of the Minolta AF lenses, I have a huge selection to pick from, and it is a very involved job to find the right one.

I currently own a Minolta 70-210mm f4 beer can zoom lens that is a beauty, and I was hoping to find something with more reach - perhaps in the 300-400mm range.

But the prices on these babies is just ridiculous. The glass is top notch, so of course they are expensive, but for used Minolta lenses, I just couldn't see spending so much. And as much as I wanted a prime lens, I had to think twice about the zooms.

I checked what Sony had available, and I was able to watch the online auctions and snag a great deal on a Sony 70-300 f4.5-5.6 G SSM.

The G glass is the next best thing to the APO glass (those beautiful white lenses) which costs thousands of dollars.

I did a lot of comparisons on many different websites on how this lens performs, and it gets rave reviews, and the photos are gorgeous - both in color and sharpness.

The one I purchased is second hand, but from the list of the other lenses that he owns - I know he took good care of it.

Did I mention I am excited - my fingers are crossed for tomorrow!



This is the fourth round of ABC Wednesday. If you would like to join in please visit this site for the details.

Friday's Photo Tip - Keeping the Camera Steady

Friday's Photo Tip - Keeping the Camera Steady









Camera movement - something that ruins many a good photo.

Nothing can be done to fix it no matter how much one spends on post processing programs.

Sometimes even taking a breath will cause just enough movement to blur the image.

Other than using a fast shutter speed that will capture the image really quick, the best thing to have on hand is a tripod.

Or a monopod, or a bean bag, or even a table or tree to steady the camera against.

I have used them all and even more in times of need.

The photo above is a mini tripod that I use for typical stock items. It's a table top model that works just perfectly for those indoor close shots with the white backgrounds.

When I need a steady shot, and I am outdoors and have the time, my regular size tripod comes in real handy. It is heavier and larger and takes time to set up correctly - not something I use unless I am staying put for a while.

My best traveling "pod" is a monopod with a floating ball head that allows quick movement.

It is lighter to carry around and much easier to maneuver when outside.

But one of the handiest "steadiers" I have used is a small beanbag filled with rice that I whipped up just for this purpose.

And when I forget to bring any of the above, a small empty ziplock bag (that I carry in my camera case) filled with sand or small pebbles works just fine - especially for the low, macro shots that I like to take outdoors.

And when all else fails, a tree trunk, table top, car roof, knee, or just holding my breath has worked too.

Necessity being the mother of invention - I try to keep an open eye and mind for all that is available.

Friday's Photo Tip - Zoom vs Prime Lens

Friday's Photo Tip - Zoom vs Prime Lens










There are two basic types of lenses for DSLR cameras.

They are Zoom lenses and Prime lenses.

Both are great to have, and getting a chance to experiment with different ones is a lot of fun.

A zoom lens is the most versatile - with a wide angle to a telephoto lens being the most popular and favorite.

With them, one lens can accomplish both types of shooting with it's varying focal lengths.

When I took the above images, I was standing in the same spot - I hadn't moved at all.

The first image has a focal length of 30mm. I used the wide angle feature on my zoom lens to get the whole scene in the frame.

The second image has a focal length of 70mm. For this image, I used the telephoto feature on the lens to bring just a piece of the scene in closer.

As much as I prefer to use a prime lens, I must admit, I keep my zoom lens on my camera the most when I am out and about.

The prime lenses have a fixed focal length, and they come in all sizes and ranges.

The reason I prefer the prime lenses is that as a rule, they have a sharper, clearer focus.

However, if you are willing to spend the money, you can get a good quality zoom lens that has great sharpness and clarity.

With prime lenses, you need to carry a lot of gear around with you, and taking the time to change lenses is sometimes just not possible.

I purchased a couple of used lenses online a couple of years ago. One was Tamron prime lens that I had read rave reviews about, and the other was a Sigma zoom that also had pretty good reviews.

I was overjoyed with the Tamron - it lived up to all I had read about it and more.

The Sigma had me thinking that I was loosing my eyesight in a bad way. After reading more about the type of zoom I wanted in this range, I was pleased to find a great older zoom lens that had beautiful glass with sharp focus.

It's worth taking the time to research your glass. There are some great older ones out there that perform just as good or better than the new ones of today.

Friday's Photo Tip - Understanding Shutter Speed

Friday's Photo Tip - Understanding Shutter Speed








One of my readers writes: "I am having a great deal of difficulty understanding shutter speed. I would love to know when I should be at 200 or if I should go up to 1600. I am completely lost in this area."

Jackie, over at The Painted Veil left me a comment last week, and I hope I can help explain it a bit better.

I try to think of shutter speed in relation to the action of my subject and how I want to it to come out in the end.

If I am shooting a still life, with absolutely no movement of the subject, then a slow shutter speed is fine. I usually concentrate more on the depth of field in this case, and the aperture setting is more important to me than the shutter speed setting.

If I am shooting a moving object, and I want to freeze the action of my subject, then I am going to need a faster, or higher number, shutter speed.

On the other hand, if I want that moving object to have some "blur" to show the action, than I am going to want a slower, or lower number, shutter speed.

Take a look at the images above. You will probably have to click on them to get to my website where you can view them at a larger size.

Check out the action of the water in the first image. The water seems "frozen" in the air. I used a shutter speed of 1/80 for this image. It stopped the action of the water. If I had used a faster, or higher number, shutter speed, then it would be even more "frozen".

On the second image, see how the water has a "flowing", almost silky look to it? The shutter speed for this image is 1/20. It didn't stop the water as quickly as in the first image as it was a slower shutter speed.

The smaller the number, the longer the shutter stays open to capture the image.

If you are using an SLR camera, take off the lens, and try setting the shutter speed to 1 or 2. Trip the shutter. See how slow the mirror went up to expose the area where the film would be?

Try setting it on "B". This is a "bulb" setting, and as long as you hold your finger on the shutter button, it will stay open, exposing the film and "taking" the picture.

Try experimenting with the higher settings too - watch and listen to how fast it goes.

I am not sure how DSLR's handle working without a lens. If yours can, then you should be able to do these experiments with your camera.

One word of caution when using slow shutter speeds though - any camera movement at all will make your image unfocused.

As a rule of thumb, anything under 1/30 shutter speed should be on a tripod.

The DSLRs of today and many of the more expensive lenses have anti-shake or stabilization technology in them which allows you to push that 1/30 down to 1/20 with good results - as long as you are holding your breath.

Just don't pass out from not breathing as you are using the 1/20 without a tripod and are taking too long to focus.

A New Feature - Friday's Photo Tip

Friday's Photo Tip






I have been very lucky to have some great readers to my blog over the last two years.

During that time, I have had many questions regarding different photography topics, terms, equipment, and techniques.

I am always glad to help out when I can, and when you see the enthusiasm for learning that some people have, it is contagious - you just want to share.

I don't have a lot of knowledge regarding the different camera brands and all their features and such, but I do have a pretty good understanding of the photography basics that can be applied to any camera.

And I do have such a love for this art.

I have decided to add a new type of post to my blog, and I figured Friday would be the best day to do it.

I will be making these posts photography related, and I will do my best to use my images to illustrate the subject.

I invite any questions from my readers, and I will answer and explain what I know.

I look forward to hearing from you!